Tactical instructions for navigating street signs and menus written entirely in local script. No English? No translation? No problem.
Before you even look at a menu board, use these three environmental clues to decode what the stall specializes in:
Walk up to the vendor with a calm smile. Do not try to read the menu board. Instead, scan the tables where other locals are currently eating. Find a dish that looks spectacular, gently point your finger toward it, look at the cook, and say “Mway” (which means “One”). You have just ordered exactly what the locals are enjoying.
If you are at a family rice shop with no tables visible yet, walk straight up to the counter line. There will usually be a row of deep metal pots or a glass case filled with bowls. Point directly at the pot that is more than halfway empty. If the neighborhood has already eaten most of it, it is guaranteed to be the best dish of the day.
When you finish eating, do not ask for a paper bill. Catch the vendor’s eye, make a writing motion with your hand in the air, and say “Kit Loy” (Check, please). Hold out a 5,000 or 10,000 Riel note ($1.25 to $2.50 USD). They will smile, take the cash, and hand you back the exact local change.
If you see a sign with images or want to try reading a basic layout, look for these shapes:
If you see a smoking grill: You are ordering skewers. Expect sweet, lemongrass-marinated meats cooked over hot coals.